Buenos Aires

The Paris of the Pampas
The city of the Tango; gray-haired gentlemen working women on the floor, cheek to cheek, hip to hip, breast to breast, steam, heat and cigarette smoke. It is not at all a shady establishment of a company offering you a taste of the oldest industry in history; it is a quite normal all-night milonga in one of Buenos Aires many tango halls!

Being the long-troubled capitol of an equally troubled city, the citizens of Buenos Aires have learned to invest in something they find more stable than economy - their culture. Inhabitated by loads of Italians, and virtually being a British outpost in the 1920s, Buenos Aires has been accused for trying to be more European than Europe itself. It seems like the tide has turned, and the rise of the national pride makes for an awesome surf.

The city is bursting wih long avenues, bustling streets, old-time cafes and new stylish restaurants. Wander cobbled streets, marvelling at faded architectural glories and colourfully painted metal houses. Talk world politics and fotbol in atmospheric old cafes. Tuck into one of the famous Argentinian steaks to power a long nights partying.

What to see

Casa Rosada
Or the Pink House as it translates, looks down on Plaza de Mayo, one of the most popular squares in Buenos Aires. From the balcony of this palace, Juan and Eva Peron along with Menem and other politicians have addressed the crowds below.

Teatro Colon
This place was one of the art crowns of the city, opened in the beginnings of the 20th century. It is now used for operas, ballets and classical music, and it is also possible to take a guided tour arond the theatre's hidden areas.

El Zanjn
In San Telmo, a nabe known best for its Sunday knicknacks-and-tango festival (doesnt every city have one?), an unmarked door gives way to a house that sits atop 1,500 meters of colonial-era tunnels dating back as far back as El Zanjn de Granados, the village founded here in 1536

Museo del Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
Designed by three young Argentinias, this museum houses a great collection from Argentinian impressionists, Cubists and Abstract Expressionist. Also sells handcraft by local artists.

Where to get stuffed

Cafe Tortoni
The oldest and most celebrated caf in town, where you can eat till you crawl while being watched from the corner by a wax version of the famous Argentinian writer Jorge Luis Borges.

Parilla La Cabana

Bar Uriarte
A sleek spot with food as beautiful as the people.

Where to shake your booty

Lo de Roberto
Dusty bottles, faded photos, and worn lyric sheets line the walls. Guitarists and tango singers wander in after midnight, and the owner Roberto will sternly shush anyone who dares to talk while they play.

This club has a Thursday night international hip hop/electronic-music party called Club 69, where a campy mix of breakdancers and transvestites find common ground.

Bar 6
Where the martinis are dry, the couches comfy and low and the price more than right.

Tip: Clarn and Pagina 12 newspapers have weekly listings of events The "Si" section of Clarn comes out on Fridays while the "No" section of Pgina 12 comes out on Thursdays. Also pick up the free monthly Spanish-language magazine Wipe, found at most Palermo stores and restaurants which has up-to-date bar and party listings.

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